Notes from Zambia: "The monkeys got away with the cat food!"

No, I wasn't playing a good ol' game of “Telephone” to reminisce about childhood days.

Last week, I arranged some holiday time to visit the legendary South Luangwa National Park in eastern Zambia. Boy, did it ever live up to expectations and then some!

Though it doesn't look that far away on the map, I took the advice in my guidebook and arranged a flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe, the small town just outside the park. After an exciting one hour and ten minute ride in a small propeller plane, we landed at Mfuwe (International) Airport. It was strange to see an international airport in the middle of the bush, but that's what the sign said. Though it had been warm in the plane, I was not fully prepared for the baking heat that awaited outside. It was easily 45C; a temperature that I had never before experienced.

I was met at the airport by staff from Wildlife Camp. They drove me to the camp in a big, open Range Rover with a canvas canopy. With the wind in my face the whole way to the camp, the heat became a bit more bearable but it was still “hot hot”.

My ride to the park - classy!

My chalet

Wildlife Camp premises

Upon arrival, I was warmly greeted by Dora, a Swiss lady who has been co-managing the camp for the last seven years. She showed me to my comfortable and breezy chalet and then to the dining area where I was promptly served lunch – a delicious lasagne and green salad. Later, over afternoon tea (how civilized!), Dora explained the rules of the camp, which included: 1) staying inside the chalets or in the dining/bar area after dark; 2) asking to be driven between different parts of the camp after dark; and 3) not leaving any food inside the chalets. All of the rules were designed to protect guests from the animals including elephants, hippos, baboons and monkeys which regularly wander through. It was even recommended to leave valuables in the safe lest a baboon or monkey should break in to the chalet to make off with one's gold watch or Visa card (not that I have a gold watch to steal). I gather it has happened before.

On the subject of the plentiful and playful primates at the camp, while enjoying my lunch on Tuesday, I overheard Dora exclaim to her staff, “The monkeys got away with the cat food! I don't think we have any more.” Upon hearing her tone of utter exasperation, I knew I had the title for my blog post.

As part of the full-board package I had booked, I was eligible for go on two park trips per day (morning and evening), and to have all meals provided. Wildlife Camp is one of the cheapest options at the park, so I expected spartan accommodation and food. In reality, I was quite spoiled with superb meals and a lovely chalet. What's more, the camp is operated in association with the Wildlife & Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia; since about 60% of the proceeds go to the society, I felt good staying there.

The forays into the park were, without any doubt, the true highlight of the visit. I think that my visit to South Luangwa might rank as the best trip I've ever taken. The landscape was beautiful at all times of day, from the early morning light to the red-orange light of sunset, and into the nighttime hours when the crescent moon and zillions of twinkling stars filled the sky. I can't say enough about the expert guides at the camp; they were truly excellent! They told us so many things about the fascinating ecology of the Luangwa Valley and were quite adept at finding the animals that have always inspired my imagination about Africa.

All told, I made five trips into the park: three evening/night drives, one morning drive and a morning walking safari. Each trip was an entirely new experience filled with interesting facts and beautiful scenery. Speaking of which, here are some photos.