Arrived in Mazabuka

I've now been in Mazabuka for four days and have been on the job already for the past two. My travel to Zambia went as planned – no major hiccups along the way, fortunately. On the way over, I had a 12-hour layover in Amsterdam, which allowed me to go into town and have a look around. I bought a pass for the canal bus and tried out a few of the routes. I thought of going in to a museum (i.e. Van Gogh), but I was not in the mood for a museum after such a long flight. Plus, it was such a gorgeous day.

I really enjoyed Amsterdam but was completely bagged by the time I made it back to the airport. I splurged for a day pass at a fitness centre in the airport so that I could shower and change. They even had these little lounge beds, where I was able to catch a few ZZZs before boarding my next flight to Nairobi. The flight left a bit late on account of some people arriving too late at the gate and also trying to bring too much carry on baggage aboard. I just wanted to get to my seat so I could crash!

I was met in the Lusaka airport by my VSO Programme Manager, George. He took me to a hotel to get freshened up and have lunch. The VSO Zambia staff started their mini-induction for me that afternoon, which consisted of safety tips, financial arrangements, and a discussion of the placement, among other things. I got a bank account set up (the bank required very little information, contrary to what we need back home) and a cellphone. The mini-induction continued Friday morning, and later in the day, my hosts in Mazabuka came to pick me up. It was an interesting ride to Mazabuka – we left a bit later than expected, so ended up driving most of the way in the dark. Already I was breaking one of the cardinal rules of travel in Africa – don't drive (or be a passenger) at night! Indeed, there was a big accident on the road, so we (and others) off-roaded around the accident.

Anyways, we made it to Mazabuka in one piece and I was introduced to my housemate, Robert from the UK. He is also working with the Mazabuka Municipal Council on an HIV prevention program. So far we seem to be getting along very well. Our house is quite large (5 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms), which makes me feel a bit guilty. Despite the size, the house is largely empty – the furniture is simple and functional. For the first time in my life, I have a cleaning lady and a guard – very strange.

The yard is attractive and has several trees, including a few poinsettia trees (yes, trees!). I did a double-take when I saw the size of the plants, being accustomed only to the well-fertilized potted plants that we typically see around Christmastime. Apparently we have a lemon tree in the yard too. Gin and tonic anyone?

As I mentioned to a few people, what I could bring with me was limited. In the end, I was limited to one checked suitcase weighing no more than 25 kg. Thus, I had to pack sensibly, knowing that I was going to be there during the southern hemisphere winter, but also during the incredibly hot, humid and wet summer season. There is a maxim with travel – pack what you want to take, then cut it in half, then cut it in half again. I've done that but I think I may have shortchanged myself on some of the essentials.

As it turns out, Zambians are quite a well-dressed bunch of people, at least those who are in the middle classes. The standard of dress is at least as formal as in my office back home, perhaps even more so. I will have to do some shopping to get a few more shirts, at least one tie, and perhaps some new trousers.

Speaking of buying things, my first purchases stunned me a little. I knew that the kwacha traded against the Canadian dollar at a rate of about 4500:1, but I still found it shocking to spend K500,000 in one go. This was roughly the cost to buy some sheets, a pillow and a blanket for my bed. In reality this is only about $100; it would be tough to find these items back home for only $100. Similarly, my first grocery bill in Mazabuka came to K69,160, for a few staples like milk, onion, green pepper, tomatoes, sausages and a few other things. In Canadian funds, this amounts to roughly $15.50. There are no coins in Zambia, though there used to be in the past. The smallest bill is now K50 (one cent), and the largest is K50,000 ($10). Soon I'll be fully set up with banking so that I can pay for some things by debit. Carrying cash in these large denominations is somewhat inconvenient.

So how about Mazabuka? The town is located about 125 km southwest of the capital, Lusaka. While some of the documentation I'd read before I left indicated that Mazabuka is about 35,000 people, I'm told that the larger district (including the town and the rural area) includes closer to 200,000 people. The living standards in town vary quite considerably, from small mud and/or block houses to larger homes with exterior walls and gates, running water and electricity. Since I'm typing after hours, you might be able to guess where I am living along that continuum...

The central business district has a decent selection of shops and services, and is quite pleasant to walk through. The main street is lined with some lovely mature trees and there is a wide sidewalk on one side. Just about everyone is wonderfully friendly and eager to offer a “Good morning/afternoon”, “Hello” or “Mwabuka buti”. It's not a completely rosy picture here in Mazabuka though; the subdivisions outside the centre of town have far fewer services and are quite exposed to the elements. The Council has planted trees along some of the streets, but they appear to be a long way from being mature "street trees".  I've been out to see a few of these developments with my Director over the last few days. During the dry season (which we're in now), the winds can kick up quite a lot of dust. Furthermore, water is not always available, and there are pit-latrines in these areas.

At the Council offices, I am busying myself getting to know my colleagues and to figure out where the Integrated Development Plan process left off. There is so much to learn! In any event, much has happened already in these few days and I expect considerably more in the days, weeks and months ahead. I'll check in again soon with more updates!

My office is comfortable but basic. The building design is quite different from what I'm used to back home – each office has a door out onto a covered breezeway. My office faces out directly towards the road, although the building is set back a good 20-30 metres on that side.

Oh, by the way, I'm aware of a gecko darting across the wall to my left as I write...