D.I.Y. Utilities Inc.

This morning, Rob and I woke up to find both the water and the power off. While it's a bit of overkill to get a generator, it's certainly no problem to harness the rains that so amply pour out of the sky.

Within a few minutes, I had three large buckets of water with which to do some dishwashing, toilet flushing, etc. If the situation persists for long, I'll pour the water through the filter and add some chlorine so that we have drinking water too. After all, the sky is where our drinking water comes from, isn't it? 

The rainwater harvesting operation.

The fruits of my industry.

Rainy season

This week, I finally received a Christmas card from my mother in which she asked whether the initial rains had been temporary. No, indeed they are not temporary or light by any means. I thought I'd show a few photos to highlight what is meant by “rainy season”.

If one didn't know that this was my street, they might mistake it for the Zambezi River.

The view from the office breezeway during one of the storms.

Freedom 55 Retirement

For Councils in Zambia, the mandatory retirement age is an alarmingly young 55 years old. However, in a country where overall life expectancy is only 45, it is undoubtedly an accomplishment to reach 55. This contrasts starkly with the Canadian dream of retiring under the “Freedom 55” plan; it is clearly not the same situation here.

This past Friday, on my first day back at work, the Council held a retirement party to honour the four individuals that are departing to enjoy their “golden years”.  My sense however, is that retirement at 55 can be a very uncertain event for those who are still able-bodied and of sound mind. Financially, retirement can also be an uncertain time for Zambians.  With Council resources stretched as thin as they are, it is no secret that the Council struggles to pay the full lump sum retirement benefit that they pledge to their retiring employees.

Difficulties and uncertainties aside, the party was a fun time for everyone from directors to street sweepers to get together, dance and enjoy some laughs. I hadn't even expected to go to the party, but was asked to give the closing remarks on the fly. I kept my speech short and positive, and ended with a prayer-song written by my friend, singer-songwriter Pat Mayberry from Ottawa:

When you go from this place, be true.

May the blessing of life find you.

May the winds of the Spirit guide you,

Across the ocean of all your days.

May the seeds of your love, your life, adorn the way.

It took some courage to sing solo a capella, but the song was well-received. Many thanks to Pat for your inspiring words and music!

Matebeto

Last night, my good friends Victoria and Lweendo prepared and hosted a group of us for a traditional Bemba dinner. I learned this week that the word for a buffet in the Bemba language is “matebeto”. All the dishes were quite tasty, though it took a leap of faith to try fried caterpillars for the first time.  My favourite foods were the pumpkin leaves, fresh kapenta (2-inch long fish), beans and okra. It was a fun evening out with friends.

The justifiably proud hostess Victoria presenting her matebeto!

A little bit of everything.  Naturally, no Zambian meal would be complete without a large lump of nshima to use as an utensil.  Clockwise from the nshima: liver, okra, beans, kapenta, fried caterpillars, pumpkin leaves and spinach with pounded groundnuts.

Extension

Though news has been getting around, I thought I'd take the opportunity to officially let everyone know that I'm going to be staying in Zambia a little longer than originally anticipated. My initial placement was designed for six months from July 15, 2010 to January 15, 2011 (yes, next week!), but to ensure that we get a bit more done, I've been asked to stay a few months more.

Consequently, I'll be working in Mazabuka until April 21, 2011, after which I'll travel a bit and then return home on May 15, 2011.

Incidentally, if any Canadian friends or family members would like to visit me in these next few months, let me know soon so we can arrange something before it's too late!

Urban Zanzibar: Stone Town

The following day, it was time to say goodbye to Nungwi and hello to Stone Town.  While the rest of my group moved in separate directions, I remained for a few days to spend time exploring the city and visiting with Wendy.  It was quite an enchanting place to ramble around, with its exceptionally narrow and twisting streets, Persian-inspired architecture, and countless tasty smells wafting from the restaurants and stalls.  The ubiquitous touts hawking anything from t-shirts to tours were a little annoying; however a polite and firm “No, thank you” usually did the trick.  I quite enjoyed taking a spice tour to see how many of our exotic spices (e.g. nutmeg, cloves, cardamom, turmeric) and fruits (e.g. pineapples, breadfruit, jackfruit) are grown.   

Middle Eastern architectural influence.

A stately entrance.

I've never seen a market that wasn't colourful.

Coffee with Wendy (centre) and Sine.

I loved the ornate Zanzibari doors.

And all of their details.

The way to get around in style.

Zanzibar seems to be a fashion capital.

This is a street.  Pretty narrow!

The original meaning of the term "haywire."

Immature cloves.

Yep, it's a pineapple.

Annatto used as a natural lipstick or a colourant for tandoori curries.

 Back in Stone Town after visiting the spice plantation, I took a sombre but moving tour of the Anglican Cathedral.  The cathedral was built directly over the site of the former slave market, which operated until the late 1800s.  The altar was built over the former whipping post where, as the name suggests, the slaves were mercilessly whipped to find out which were the “strongest” and therefore most valuable for selling.  The guide explained that the position of the altar was symbolically chosen to represent the triumph of “good over evil”.  Two of the former slave chambers remain in existence; conditions for the slaves were shockingly squalid.  A powerful monument was erected outside the church to depict the brutality and inhumanity of this bygone era.

Anglican Cathedral built in the late 1800s using coral cement.

50 people were crammed into the smaller room.

75 slaves at a time were crammed into this room where nobody could stand.

Slaves were chained together next to other slaves that spoke other languages.

The morning after final sundowners and tasty cheap food on the beach, I said goodbye to Wendy and made my way back to Dar es Salaam and onwards to Lusaka.  It was a splendid holiday that I will remember forever.

Another splendid sunset.

 As I shuttled between taxis, ferries, trains, and planes on my way back to Zambia, I couldn't help but recall the lyrics of one of my favourite Joni Mitchell songs, Black Crow:

I took a ferry to a highway

Then I drove to a pontoon plane

I took a plane to a taxi

And a taxi to a train.

I've been travelling so long,

How am I ever gonna know

My home, when I see it again?

I feel like that black crow

Flying, in a blue sky.

The dawn of a New Year

On the 31^st, we shifted north to the happening town of Nungwi.  The beach there dropped off much more steeply into the sea so swimming was much easier than at Bwejuu.  After a dip in the ocean, we all enjoyed the last sunset of 2010 sprawled out on the beach watching local boys making an aquatic jungle gym out of a small boat in the foreground.  New Year's dinner was a fun affair at tables set out on the beach, although the service was rather poor.  Oh well – something had to be imperfect.

Daladala #116 to Nungwi - a tight squeeze (28 people) but a cheap ($1) lift to the north.

Daladalas are basically pickup trucks with covered benches in the back.

We attended a beach party at a neighbouring resort, where we enjoyed fireworks and a bonfire on the beach.  I had unfortunately hurt my foot a few days earlier and consequently was not in shape to do much more than hobble around on the dance floor.  (Jan. 9 update: foot is still slightly sore but I can now walk properly).  Christiane and I had a great chat on the beach which was essentially a farewell, as her placement has ended.  It's a little unreal to send people off to different continents perhaps not to be seen again.  I certainly hope not.

The ultimate New Year's Eve activity

Waiting for dinner with Christiane.

 

New Year's Eve festivities.

More New Year's festivities.

Having fun!

At any rate, it was the warmest New Year's Eve I can ever remember – it lies in stark contrast with outdoor concerts at Nathan Phillips Square in Toronto or Place D'Youville in Quebec City!

New Year's Day was a relaxed affair; each of us seemed to want to do own own thing. I met up with  my friend Wendy, with whom I'd trained at the CUSO offices in Ottawa.  In a twist of luck, her placement is actually on Zanzibar, though it sounds even more challenging than my own placement from a professional standpoint.

The next day, several of us went snorkelling at Mnemba Atoll, where the waters took on utterly impossible hues of blue and green.  The marvels under the water lived up to expectations and then some; the waters teemed with fish of every colour and size.  The SCUBA divers on our trip came back with pictures of large sea turtles and other creatures.  I wished I'd gone diving, but since it had been eight years since my last dive, I figured it was safer to stay nearer the surface.  As part of our  package, the crew prepared a delicious feast of grilled tuna and vegetables, with mouth watering mangoes and pineapples for dessert.

The final sunset of 2010.